Trail of Raja Raja Chola - Part I

Background

It is quite some time since I started contemplating on writing a blog. It took me considerable time to decide on the topic. Finally, I decided to write my first blog on my favourite subject, History. History and Wildlife are two topics that fascinate me. I always used to wonder how Kings managed their kingdoms in those days when there was no Mobile, Internet or any other electronic communication.

I was an ardent fan of Raja Raja Chola I, one of the greatest Emperors of south India. He ruled over the entire south and also neighbouring countries like Ceylon and Maldives. He was not only a great warrior-king who never faced defeat in the battlefield but also an efficient and impeccable administrator as mentioned in numerous inscriptions.

So I hit upon a plan to go on a trail of places associated with Raja Rajan. This blog is about the journey I undertook from his birthplace to his final resting place.

Preparation

I spent considerable time in collecting information on various places associated with Raja Rajan. Sources included articles, materials on internet, friends, history enthusiasts etc. I collated Chronology of events in his life, including the wars he waged and places associated with him etc and came up with the route map of places and also a separate map for the Capital Region of Pazhayarai.

Above : Map showing the overall trail of Raja Raja Chola                 

Disclaimer

I did not do any research on the authenticity of events, places or timelines associated with Raja Rajan. I merely collated the information available as mentioned above. I stand corrected in case of any discrepancy or error. Also, it is quite some time since I visited the places mentioned below and the descriptions were as and how I saw them then. Some of them could have undergone renovations after my visit.

Trail - Day 1

  

Tirukovilur - Where Raja Rajan was born

I decided to start my trail from the birthplace of Raja Rajan I, Tirukovilur in Villuppuram district. Raja Rajan was born here as Arul Mozhi Thevan to Paranthaka Cholan & Vanavanmadevi in the year 943 AD.

I left Chennai by car, with my driver of many years, Ravi at 7: 45 AM. It was mid March and with the summer temperature peaking up, reached Tirukovilur at 11:30 AM. Due to lack of any monuments or even remains of any palace belonging to Chola period, I decided to visit the Ulagalantha Perumal temple to seek the blessings of the Lord. This temple is revered as one of the 108 Vaishnavite Divyadesams by the Alwars who lived between 6th and 8th CE. As Raja Rajan was born in 10th CE, this temple should have existed when he was born. Who knows, he might have even visited this temple during his childhood. 

Above: Inscription on Raja Rajan’s birth in Tirukovilur (Raja Rajan Memorial Museum in Thanjavur

After the darshan, I left Tirukovilur at 12:05 PM and reached Thanjavur at 4 PM via Perambalur & Ariyalur. 

Thanjavur - From where Raja Rajan ruled

Even though it was early evening, it was still quite hot. Hence I thought of delaying my visit to the Big temple so that I can avoid walking barefooted on the hot stone ways around the temple. I decided to visit the Raja Rajan Memorial Museum on the Pudukottai Road first. This museum provides us with an insight of Chola Empire in general and Raja Rajan's reign in particular. Stones with inscriptions, Palm leave transcripts, Swords, Coins, Jewellery like Anklets, sculptures from Cholas period are in display. There is also a life size statue of Raja Rajan and a small replica of Big temple. There are also a few paintings, one depicting Raja Rajan with his mentor, Karuvur Thevar and another with Queen. Interestingly, Raja Rajan does not have moustache in these paintings, though we are used to one with big moustache as sported by Sivaji Ganesan in the movie Raja Raja Cholan.

  Above : Sword & Coins from Chola period

                                  

There are details of the extent of his empire & his government setup. But what struck me most was the similarity between his Government setup and the current one we have in India. For example, he had separate ministries for Administration, Finance, Justice, Irrigation, Education, Municipal administration etc. Finance Ministry had two departments, Currency & Trade while Justice was split into Courts & Direct (by the king).

After spending about an hour in the museum, I reached my last stop for the day, Brahadeeswara Temple, also called as Big temple. Construction of this temple was completed in 1010 AD to commemorate the 25th anniversary of Raja Rajan's reign. Contrary to what we have read that princes become kings at a very early age, Raja Rajan became the King at an advanced age of 43, in 985 AD.

I am not going to dwell in detail about the temple as much have been said and written about this masterpiece of Raja Rajan. I had darshan of the Lord and spent time trying to read and understand the inscriptions on the walls but with little success. Tamil in those days was very different from what we talk and write today, though I could read "Raja Kesari" in one of the inscriptions which was a reference to Raja Rajan. I made it a point to visit the shrine of his mentor, Karuvur Thevar in the temple complex, on the prakaram behind the main temple.

  

The sun had set by now and it was slowly getting dark when I left the imposing temple at around 6 30 PM. With my rendezvous with Thanjavur over, I decided to proceed to Kumbakonam as the second half of my trail covered places around Kumbakonam. I reached Kumbakonam at around 7 30 PM, went around the town looking for an accommodation and finally got a decent one near Kumbeswara temple. 

I hit the bed early looking forward to the exciting second phase of my trail that will take me to some of the less travelled roads. Unlike Thanjavur, most of these places are not popular and hence expected to spend considerable time in searching for these places.

                                                                                                        (To be continued)